Walking around for a change, although only on flat ground this time so even I didn’t need to give me any sympathy.
About 10 minutes from Thamel is Durdar Square, which used to be the main hangout for the rulers of the country. It was also the spot where particularly chilled out stars of old (Hendrix, Jagger, Lennon et al) could come for some quiet contemplation and the odd smoke or two. So much so that the main tower in the square is still known as the Hippy Tower.
As you walk down to the square you also go past Freak St..apparently where the overlanders from my generation gathered their strength after a torrid trip across from Europe. As with Goa, there are still some relics wandering around although (here’s a style tip for aging hippies) dreadlocks really lose their edge when they are grey…and have a bald spot the size of an orange. Pretty much the same advice for tie died anything..just don’t.
I was helped on my rounds by the ever attentive ‘guides’ and, feeling kinda mellow forked out an outrageous amount ($5….what the..) for a guided tour around the complex. Saw all the shrines including one which was built into the base of a tree..which then grew and a great little spot where they used to behead people for various crimes (charging tourists too little mark up perhaps??)
Don’t let the happy headdress fool you..if you ended up on your knees in front of this guy you’d better hope you had a good lawyer…preferably with a gun.
One of the ancient temples was apparently made from only one tree…must have been a biggy..and is still a venerated place with a resident holy man and attendant. Although the main religion is Hindu, as Buddha was born in Nepal and spent all his early life here there are a large proportion of Buddhists as well..swelled in recent years by Tibetan Buddhists who found the climate at home just a little harsh. Getting killed for your beliefs would do that. One of the results of these two religions coexistence is that they tend to borrow the good bits from each other in Nepal.
My nbf’s soon wandered off when it got to the important stuff of how much I would buy from the only authentic thanka artist in Nepal so I got to some lone wandering.
The Kumari’s palace is also in the square. This poor little pre pubescent girl is said to be the living incarnation of a goddess. After meeting the 32 steps of perfection the little girl is put under the care of a priestess. She is the incarnation until she hits puberty then it’s back to the community…where it is bad luck to marry an ex Kumari. Bloody tough gig’and the pension plan really sucks. On special occasions she appears at the window of her palace…and, as I was there, it was a special occasion and she came to the window…you could have heard a pin drop…a special moment for the devotees and even quite moving for the uninitiated who saw the effect she had on the believers. Definitely no photos of goddesses (unless, of course, you are at home)
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